Dense, meaty and powerful to the core, the 2012 Syrah Hawkes Butte is a wine built on structure. The contours are a bit angular, but there is nevertheless plenty of depth, resonance and pure power. This is one of the more massive wines in the range, but there is quite a bit to admire in the wine's dark, mysterious personality. The 50% whole clusters are nearly buried by the intensity of the fruit and firm tannins that need at least a year or two to soften.
I was quite taken with the wines I tasted from Copain and proprietor Wells Guthrie this year. The Tous Ensemble range delivers outstanding value, while the best Syrahs and Pinots soar with exceptional beauty and a sense of weightlessness that is compelling. In particular, several of the 2012 Syrahs are utterly captivating.
Guthrie is among the producers who prefer to pick at slightly lower sugars, quite a move from the much riper style he was once known for. Readers will find much to admire in these gorgeous, artisan wines.
94 pts Antonio GalloniŒæ